The road is broken huge cold puddle it reflects almost all the village. But with the entrance are women, laughing about anything. Past the creaking joints of my grandfather, trudging with “honcharky”. The sawmill groan movers, give bit machine on the tin, rustling packets of oklacity with poultry. Suddenly in a puddle flies a rusty wheel of a moped. The waves push the boiling life down the picture. Water is slow to heal, and in tyanuvshiysya puddle remain only the ruins of the old landlord and endless locks on the doors of mills and factories. The village is immersed in suspended animation. The report is modest about the Belarusian village, which seems to be quite unwell.
Barbed wire, high fence, the tower — area of confectionery factory doesn’t look very sweet. From the entrance go two women. Not in a hurry, carry heavy packages of pasta, bread and linen — so experienced workers got paid. But it is better than nothing: other for six months can’t see it and only eat “Breakfast.”
— We are not forced, it is voluntary. Here allowed on account of salaries furniture to take, groceries in the cupboard, bed. Why not take it? — women exchange glances and try not to blurt out too much.
— So money can come?
— It is possible. Only they are not yet. Once probably will — quickly try to escape from the suspicious questions of evenchance, which was only a few years before retirement.
Both women came to the confectionery factory “Ivkon” right after school. Since then, never left, never left and ran — worked properly for the good of the Fatherland. Things seemed fine: by the standards of modest Ivenets were paid well, and work dust — free candy was wrapped. But about three years ago someone skidded on the production of an unknown infection that quickly kills economic immunity. Factory coughed, then began fainting, and in November of last year the city-forming enterprise has fallen into a coma. And projections doctors do not give.
You say that it happens sometimes, and you’d be right. It’s probably fine. But the same infection all of a sudden people without special education were spread all over the village. “Goncharka” canning, “Neptune”, the furniture — the disease is beveled all. Production stronger were able to stay on his feet, the other immediately fell, and crawled away to blow his nose in the pillow. Saying someone even died. People were not ready for this, once a prosperous Belarusian region of potters, which was the envy of the neighborhood, was knocked down. I tried to fight back, but was no one — in this match both fighters are fighting on the same side, but somehow still lose.
The youth woke up first and took a comfortable seat in a minibus to Minsk. Then pulled the older people and sat down “on the wheel”. In Ivyanets was left with only the stationary segments of the population who have patiently hope for some outside forces. Now they say early in the morning in Minsk not to leave: the hours from seven starts “the Great (temporary) resettlement”.
Why live in a large village of the shaft began to shut down and wither many businesses, the locals do not understand. Used them all over the district to work came, and now here even for them.
In Ivyanets all want to talk about their problems and almost everyone is afraid of.
— I when the mother said Onliner going to speak, she cried and begged not to be photographed and not to speak the name tells us, a local man who agreed to conduct a tour. — Mom, it’s on the SOE operates and can actually work loose. But if out now, to go nowhere at all.
We have so head of the kindergarten began to ask awkward questions and some direct order, so it was immediately “asked”. This is no joke.
We walk along the outskirts and talk about the problems. All Ivenets — a solid private sector with the usual decorations. In the yard grow bottle palm trees on the facade hangs the forgotten shampoo, between the narrow bars of the gate trying to sneak in a healthy dog (although he understands that not fit: a thousand times I tried). Bike AIST, protruding half-liters inner pocket of gray coat, a beautiful river at the road sign, curious grandma behind the curtain, buried in the core of the Earth a rusty piece tractor — our guide does not pay attention to it and call the local in an attempt to find someone more compliant Yes bolder. Finally we find a spirited woman, in front of which the work “left to Fedot”.
— Let’s in near the ruins of the twelve meet, I have a couple of bells made that there are other people, says Ivanchenko.
“Ruins” is the local name for the ruins of the gentry house on the outskirts. The place is beautiful and symbolic. At noon there come to the local — is about ten people. The delegation of the chorus talks about how we lost everything.
— We once in four shifts worked — the output was not! Then came some problems, people on a three-day moved, — starting with the woman who is not sure is where to get out of the decree.
Usually three days did not come out. Used for a week never to work will not work. And with the new year, production stopped. Sitting, waiting, continue with Ivanchenko colleagues.
Simple pay 6-7 rubles — anyone. Well as pay should pay. Generally, we sit for six months without pay!
— The buffet food to take, but as for me bills to pay? As medicines to buy?
— It’s terrible. We are adults and earn a penny can’t. There is no work. No-ka-coy. And in Minsk, not everyone can ride: for retirement, for family reasons.
— I here by parents live. Nightmare.
And I due to the mother-pensioner.
— My children contain. Half a year already.
No wonder to the ruins called. Don’t want our native Ivenets finished the same as this landlord’s house!
Women frustrated and talking at once. Wondering about other enterprises they grin.
Nothing in Ivyanets left. Craft edge, damn it! Previously, throughout the country our products are bought, and now there are three and a half man. Cans for canned, traffic signs, confectionaries ours is bent all. Our Paradise once the town became God knows what, — the chorus of angry women.
We just listen and give to talk — to ask about something absolutely not necessary. When the steam comes out and scatters, ask a rhetorical question about the reasons. They shrug: people do not explain anything.
— We ask to meet and talk, but they keep silent. That is why the meeting not to spend? What is going on there?
— I heard yesterday of a new crisis Manager was appointed. Said would start production.
— Who said that? When? — revives someone from the crowd.
— People say. Well, when launch. In a month, maybe.
Recently there really was replaced by a crisis Manager, but promises he is not at risk.
— I even have paper from the court came as something can predict? A month later, maybe something clear, but so far no prospects, I was not ready to talk, says the head of the Association on crisis management and bankruptcy Igor Shurkevich. — I now take the case and try to penetrate, then we will consider some options. There is no sense to discuss something.
Women talk about all the problems that overtook the place. Many worried about the strange situation with a kindergarten, which opened on the site of TB dispensary. In addition to not too pleasant past, sad mothers, and the building itself: it was built “in Poland” in 1918. Then there were the stables. Frank cracks and holes in the walls, rolled up tape rolls window — condition is really terrible. They say in kindergarten, even the toilet is not normal…
We are trying to get into the garden, but the gate is closed. Please call head that opens onto the porch, sees journalists, waving his hand and literally runs into the garden. Her subordinate to us is not even suitable — from a distance shouts “No”. They can understand that such issues are not solved, and to take the rap for someone else’s mistakes no one wants.
We continue the tour. Local guys who naturally work in Minsk, asking to write about the roads, which do not give rest to all motorists. They look really not very good, although it’s certainly not the main problem of Ivyanets.
Boys are driving to the bridge, the railing of which is cleverly disguised colorful wooden fence, piles rotted. Pits before testing the utility simply of sand — the guys have photographic evidence. Money for a full repair is not isolated.
The bridge flies the Laden wagon. The driver notices the camera and kindly “throwing a goat”. Conflict it really smooths out.
— There is a sign restricting the movement of trucks, but its all ignored. There is also a bypass road, but all the bars here. We complained but nothing is done. For flickers we are fine, and the truck passed. In the end, everyone in the pits, and we have too, “flushing”, in order to pass and not to knock your teeth out, complain to the guys and lead the countless potholes. — Once in Ivyanets at all about these issues, not thought. There really was great.
We are in the Central part of the village. There is a beautiful Church, the river, the only cafe. To sit in it, though, not only to buy coffee and cake to take away. The cultural life of case all are weak: on the Bulletin Board only the announcement circus, but as an alternative — the proposal to issue the “card of the pole”. They say that the youth often chooses the latter.
— We used to have every summer “cukierkowe fest” was held — a really cool action that “Ivkon” was organized. It was noisy, beautiful, fun. Now nothing at all. Even beer to drink nowhere, not something that is culturally enriched, smile guys.
Why not leave if things are so bad?
— And I left. Spent half a year in Poland and came back. Freaked out or something. I like to live in his hometown, but it’s a shame what’s happening to him all this tells us one of the local guys.
— And now I work in Minsk, engaged in sales. Would love to work here, but nowhere. Even my dad lost their jobs after so many years, — says Dima, a simple local man with a keen sense of justice.
The Central part of the village is very pretty. Two wonderful Church, temple, river, forest, literally a kilometer away. There is a building of the Executive Committee, which should explain what is happening to this once wonderful town. The chair is surprisingly open and straightforward woman, not fleeing from the conversation. I think she really sees the scale of the problems, but to solve them is not so easy.
— As I understand it, the issue with jobs is acute. It can be solved somehow?
— This is a complex issue. Sweets gave about 500 jobs. Then 300, then 100. And since November it does not work. Of course, it’s hard. Moreover, the company employs many people of the older generation, and they to get a job much more difficult. And although we say that there is no age discrimination, everyone understands that certain organizations of older people are not taken. Even my husband faced such a problem.
— But, except for “Ivana”, there were a lot of other companies. And now, they say even “now” is closed.
— We have to change people’s minds and explain to them that no work should go in their hands, and they have to look for it. Because people are living abroad. Sleeping areas of large European cities also go to the center to work. I know people used that there was a lot of sweets, a large poultry farm, a factory of art ceramics, were complex derevoobrabotki, “Krinitsa”… Here was concentrated 79% of all industrial enterprises of the Volozhin district. But in the nineties it all began to close. And I can’t influence the situation in Belarus.
In addition, many do not want to go. Come to me, I offer work, and they refuse. Such people we can not help.
— A visit Minsk?
— Yes, many. The first morning buses are Packed to capacity.
— What about kindergarten, roads? People have, in principle, a lot of questions.
— A lot, I know everyone. With regard to kindergarten, then today agreed the draft of a new object. Modern, 240 seats, with a swimming pool. Of course, we already last year wanted to start construction, but did not. The plan was to start this year and finish in 2020. the Garden will be.
With roads all the more difficult. We do have some streets in need of repair. Street Dzerzhinsky, for example, is in terrible condition. And the bridge need to be repaired. I raise this issue constantly, but the roads are repaired at the expense of the allocated budget as it is allocated primarily for objects of Republican significance. If we each did one street literally, I even was somehow… But all this requires major financial investments. Sorry, sorry…
We leave from the Executive Committee with a slight surprise, officials rarely acknowledge the existence of problems and try at least to speak openly. At the bus stop just stuffed another bus to Minsk. In the centre is not running anything at all. Nothing happens here and in the evening. If you ask a local, who here does something, the answer is: the father Leh.
— Very well done! Only one person, which is something to Ivenets is doing. A man of God, here indeed. Now, they say, the pool wants to do. We have nothing: no playgrounds, nothing, and he tries”, — haltingly explains to us the occasional pensioner.
In Belarus, the Polish Lech has lived for 19 years. Wanted to go abroad — first of all he was sent to Petersburg and then transferred to the Belarusian town of Ivyanets.
Over the years he:
- opened the children’s cafe for almost no extra charge;
- created a mini-zoo with a goat, horse, sheep and birds;
- organized the annual music competition, which is usually 400-500 people;
- renovated the gymnasium and established a circle of judo and Sambo;
- did the rehearsal point and is engaged in restoration of the Assembly hall;
- built a modern children’s and sports grounds;
- organized a group of scouts, which go in the woods;
- opened point of humanitarian assistance;
- grew a gray beard.
Leh is best described by the children: they made a Teddy bear and dressed him in the habit (vestments of the monks of the Franciscans). Handsome, broad-shouldered, silent. When we ask to tell about its merits, he’s a little shy. “It’s the same as mine, it all belongs to the Church. I just help,” — shy of the priest. In the Church recognize that all people are obliged first and foremost to him.
In the middle of the day to meet people except that here, on the territory of the Church. Probably most of them have nothing to do with religion, but the gates are open to all.
— The cafe is almost zero, but the goal is to earn we were not. Simply there was no place for the kiddies to go. Now both teenagers and parents with young come to eat ice cream. Of course, if we sold alcohol, there would were all scored, but alcohol, people will find, — smiling father of Leh showing precisely yard.
He slips on the ice in sandals, greeted the sheep, which yesterday I twisted my hoof, praying in the chapel — “the source of all that is done, only good.” We’re going to overhaul the two-story building, where most of his “projects”. It was built in the Soviet era — in those conflicting times, the Church was closed in the factory. “The gift of communism,” smiles the priest, alluding to the symbolism of the incident.
Leh shows a music Studio, and introduces the trainer on Sambo-wrestling — two-time champion of the Soviet Union and winner of many international competitions. We ask about the city’s problems, but don’t expect anything: these people usually don’t like to talk about the difficulties.
— I say in Ivyanets only you something useful to do.
— Try, try. I’ve been here 19 years.
Not question the priest, but still: where is the money for all this? It is unlikely you have a rich parish.
— No, not rich. There are people who are willing to help, they need only to find. We are looking for, and negotiate with someone, I try to do something, to organize.
— We were told that profit is almost brings. What is the goal you set for yourself? Trying to bring people to Church or just to help the town?
— Faith gives birth to culture. So we try to help people. If nothing is done, and joy in life.
Father Leh escorted us and returned to the Church. Today he still has a lot to do. The city meanwhile was already empty: all taxis rode to Minsk, cursing the roads around here. Those who did not leave remained in their houses waiting for help. Maybe a new head in the factory come up with something? Or district money throw? And suddenly someone from above to throw into a puddle of stone — circles will seem new roads, factories? Although the promises seem, no one, and does not — propose to learn nothing from the universe can wait. Here we just do not know how.
© 2019, paradox. All rights reserved.